Showing posts with label Alaska. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Alaska. Show all posts

Saturday, July 8, 2023

End of "Soapy" Smith, Bad Man -- July 8, 2023

San Francisco Call, 24-July-1898

Soapy Smith was a con man, a thief and a killer. 125 years ago today, on 08-July-1898, he met his well-earned end in Skagway, Alaska Territory. The town's name was often spelled "Skaguay." 

END OF "SOAPY" SMITH, BAD MAN. 
"HE DIED WITH HIS BOOTS ON" 

THE KILLING OF "SOAPY" SMITH AT THE HEAD OF HIS GANG WHILE TRYING TO BREAK UP THE MEETING OF THE LAW-ABIDING CITIZENS AT SKAGUAY ALASKA.

SKAGUAY, July 9. -- The five thousand people of this place were yesterday thrown into the greatest excitement by one of the most terrible outbreaks of lawlessness in the history of the Coast.

For some time past the notorious lawless adventurer, Soapy Smith, of Alaska fame, with a band of twenty heelers, rounders and cappers, have been running the shell and other and other sure thing games, and robbing the Klondikers on the trail to the Lakes. Of late they have been holding the high hand in Skaguay and terrorizing everybody.

Soapy Smith's methods were many. Among his recent operations was to have cabins fixed up for his business at different locations around town. Regular business signs over the doors deceived strangers, for members of his gang stood over all these traps.

On the arrival of the passenger vessels Soapy would detail his men at the wharf to hoodwink strangers and bring them to these dens. Some of the places would ostensibly, be information bureaus; others were conducted as pack train offices; and others as cut-rate ticket offices for Dawson.

The office for the pack train service was the most successful, as most every one coming here has more or less packing to do. Soapy's rates for work were always a little better than those in the actual business houses.

After getting a victim's promise to carry an outfit, Soapy would ask for a deposit; just a guarantee, as he said that the freight would not be given to anyone else. When the victim would take out his wallet to make the payment some member of the gang would grab the sack from his hand. Then some one else In the gang would pretend to get indignant and swear he would not stand by and see a man robbed in that way. The whole gang would then make a rush for the thief. In the scuffle some one would knock down the victim. By the time he was straightened up the gang would be gone.

These robberies were openly practiced by day as well as by night. The gang was bold and indifferent to all law and order, and did pretty much as they pleased.

To-day the first lot of miners came in from Dawson City on their way to their homes, with their winter's clean up of gold dust. So much dust in transit about town was too good a thing for Soapy's gang to let pass. So one of his men was detailed to cultivate the friendship of some of the returned Klondikers. This fellow readily made the acquaintance of one J. D. Stewart and induced him to exhibit his gold dust to the gang. They had cajoled him into believing that their sole desire in life was to see the appearance of real Klondike gold dust; they, said they wanted to see if it differed in appearance from the dust of other mining localities.

Stewart unwittingly went to the merchant's safe, where he had deposited his clean-up on arriving in town, and returned with the bag, containing $3,000.

The gang circled around him asking questions. Suddenly one fellow from behind reached over and grabbed the sack; another struck him a blow for trying to rob Stewart, and knocked him out of the door. The gang then began fighting among themselves, and in the scrimmage one of them made away with the sack.

This deed brought the Skaguay citizens to a realization of their position and duty in the protection of life and property.

The merchants at once called a meeting to organize a vigilance committee to order Soapy Smith and all such characters out of town.

The City Marshal is said to have stood in on the "divvy" with the gang, and would not interfere or serve papers for their arrest.

While this mass meeting of law abiding citizens was in progress, Smith got word of it. Winchester rifle in hand, and with his followers, which he called "The Skaguay Militia." at his heels, he marched down the street to the place of meeting. Soapy was swearing as he went along that he would scatter that crowd, and teach them not to Interfere in his business.

Hundreds of the terror stricken people rushed to their homes to arm themselves.

The first man Soapy met at the door of the meeting was Mr. Reid, City Surveyor. Soapy struck him over the head with his rifle and then fired at him.

Reid fell to the ground wounded. He wrenched his pistol from his belt and fired two shots at Smith, Both bullets took effect and he died instantly.

Reid was dangerously wounded.

Inside of ten minutes all the lights in town were turned out. Everybody thought it was going to be a fight to a finish. The law abiding people grabbed their guns and gathered in the middle of the street. They appointed a new City Marshal. Then in squads and with guns cocked they encircled the town to round up the outlaws.

An armed committee of twenty-five citizens commenced their work on the inside to take the balance of the criminals dead or alive.

When Soapy 's gang saw the determination of the people they quit, and all were captured but one. He was the thief who stole Stewart's gold dust. A special squad was detailed to root him out of his hiding place. He will have hard work to escape.

The gang has promised to tell where he is and to give up the dust providing the committee will not hang him.

The law and order party feels highly elated over the success of its night's work. Assurances of protection have been made to the miners and traveling public.

Soapy Smith, the dead leader of this terrorizing gang, was born at Camilla, Georgia, 48 years ago. He has a brother in Washington, D. C.

J. P. COX.



SKAGUAY, July 21. -- The citizens' committee has held daily sessions since the killing of "Soapy" Smith, and up to the time the Farallon left had succeeded in ridding Skaguay of nearly all of its objectionable characters. A number of suspects are still in charge of the committee. United States Deputy Marshal Taylor has been charged with neglect of duty and attempting to extort money, and is under $5000 bonds to appear before the Grand Jury in Sitka next November. Nine others have also been committed and taken to Sitka on the steamer.

Captain Yeatman of the United States army, with a detachment of soldiers, is in Skaguay and was contemplating putting the town under military rule, fearing that summary punishment would be administered, but finally accepted the assurance of the committee that all persons in their charge would be given an impartial hearing. The town still remains in the control of the citizens' committee.

After the burial of "Soapy" Smith the committee took charge of his premises and effects and a search of the former resulted in the finding of the sack of dust stolen from Stewart. The sack was found in a trunk in a building at the rear of Smith's saloon. Nearly all of the $2775 stolen was recovered. It was rumored that other evidence of foul play and robbery were found but the committee will not make anything public until it has finished its work.

When the Farallon left everything was quiet. Saloons were closed day and night. The committee has been petitioned by saloon keepers to reopen and were willing to give a guarantee that their houses would be kept in first-class order, but their request has not yet been granted.


As to the antecedents of Soapy Smith, upon whose grave the earth of Skaguay's cemetery is yet fresh, little is generally known, and that little is not important. He first reached fame while operating in Denver, where he combined with rare skill the vocations of thief, gambler and politician. From the last he derived the pull whereby he was enabled safely to pursue the others.

At one time he was a power in the Colorado city, and no crime in which he engaged could keep him in jail for more than a few moments. He would be arrested at midnight for a serious offense, and after an early breakfast be on the street as gay as a lark superintending a primary with a view to purifying municipal government chatting with policemen, his air being that of condescension, or showing a visitor from the country the inutility of guessing which walnut shell had a pea under it. Nothing could embarrass him. His quality of cheek Has never been equaled, and this same quality on occasions became a reckless courage. His death at Skaguay was a fitting end, but tardy, very tardy.

To be truthful it becomes necessary to dispel one illusion concerning Smith. He was not an educated man. On the contrary, he was ignorant. Far from being a master of French and Spanish, he never more than half conquered plain English. He was a plausible talker, as many learned by an experience which cost them all the coin they had available when his dulcet tones wooed them to his den, but his grammar was hardly up to the gambling room average. However, had he possessed a moral nature which would have kept his talents from going awry he might have been a leader of men, for wherever he happened to be there gathered about him ruffians and scoundrels who looked upon him as master and faithfully brought to him the spoil of their raids on the unwary. For these scurvy chaps he was always ready to fight with pistols or to put up bail. For in his peculiar way Soapy was always true to his friends. His selection of friends was bad.

There is not a trick known to confidence men in which Soapy was not expert. He had practiced them all, had won thousands, and, unless he acquired new habits in Alaska, frittered it all away. His delight in spending money was as great as his joy in stealing it to expend. Not only was he generous, but having won a large stake he invariably made straight for a faro game and, as he expressed it, blew it all in. Sometimes he was lucky, and then he would say gleefully: "Boys, I win a thousand last night off old Bell. Have a drink with me." What was not exhausted in treating the crowd, in loans to others who hadn't "win out," was sure get in Ball's sooner or later.

In his earlier Denver days Soapy was not flush. When he did not have the means to play bank he would buy a bar of laundry soap, borrow a few twenty dollar bills and proceed to recoup. It was by this he got the name which has out-lasted him. He would cut the soap into miniature squares, wrap the pieces in tissue paper, and standing on the street corner display the lot In an open satchel held on a tripod. The public would be invited to purchase "Dental soap, the finest preparation for the teeth ever compounded; good also to soften the skin, polish the nails and warranted not to harm a child." Three pieces of this invaluable adjunct to the toilet could be had for half a dollar. Soapy's keen gray eyes would scan the throng for a buyer.

At first there would be no response. Then he would take from his pocket one of the borrowed twenties, unwrap a piece of the soap, enclose it in the money, rewrap It and throw it Into the satchel. Sometimes he would repeat this several times, at last inviting the spectators to pick out the pieces they thought contained the bills. Of course there was no difficulty in doing this. Then cupidity would be aroused, and at the point where buyers were tumbling over each other to get to the satchel, the trick came in.

It's an old trick, but nobody ever did it so well as Soapy. The packages which should have had the money simply didn't have it. Nobody ever captured a single piece of money, and yet the crowd would not stop trying as long as the soap lasted. By this time Soapy would have enough to keep him amused at faro for a night.

But this scheme seemed to him petty. and as a rule he held himself above it. He much preferred quicker returns. It was more to his taste to work a rustic for a purse of money. He started a gambling rooms with every robbing device known to the craft. The games appeared as fair as any other games, but they were all crooked. Nobody had a chance of winning, for cards were stacked and the most ingenious devices used for skinning patrons. If any visitor showed a disinclination to play he was sold a gold mine which never existed, induced to invent in fictitious stock. As a last resort he was quietly "touched" and thrown without unnecessary violence into the street.

But one day Denver had a spasm of virtue, and concluding that Soapy had flourished too long began to insist that the police drive him away. He went to a suburb, but the city extended so as to embrace the suburb, and Soapy had to look for other fields. He found one, and is buried in it.

Once the Smith gang got hold of a miner who had boasted of being able to write an acceptable check for $5000, They ascertained that the boast was well founded, and they kept hold of the miner. When they had him workably drunk they accused him of lying, declaring a disbelief In the allegation that he had a cent on deposit. The miner becoming indignant offered to bet that his word and his paper were good. So a wager was made and the stakes together with a check for $5000 placed in the safe. The miner kept on drinking until he had reached the stage of being paralyzed, when he was tucked in bed. The sun was high in the heavens before he awoke, but it hadn't been very high before Soapy or some of his pals were at the bank. The first check presented was the one for $5000 and it was promptly cashed. When the miner awoke he was indignant, but he gained nothing by this beyond a compromise. Soapy and the gang divided the booty.

But this man Soapy was known to be generous. He would give money to a beggar and delighted to shower it upon friends. One time he met a newspaper man on th« streets of Denver. The journalist in his pursuit of his calling had frequent occasion to call the confidence man a thief, but Soapy viewed this in a strictly professional light and never manifested the slightest hard feeling.

"Hello, Dick." he remarked. "Come in and have a hat with me."

They happened to have met in front of a hat and furnishing store.

"You don't owe me any hats." Dick responded, but Soapy insisted. The hat was purchased, and then Smith remarked that the reporter was wearing a rather shabby overcoat. As before, he was insistent, and Dick asked an explanation.

"lts just this way," said Soapy. "I win out a couple of hundred selling soap. It's in my clothes right now. I'm on my way to Cliff Bell's to play bank and tryin' to spend It before I get there, for that old son-of-a-gun will get every cent I don't manage to drop between here and his ______ game."

Soapy's personality was not attractive. He was hardly up to medium size, dressed carelessly, spoke quietly. It was only when there was a victim in sight that he became interesting. He had a keen but wandering eye. He was continually on the lookout lest one of his numerous dupes might be inclined to take a shot at him. But he had all the honor of the gambler, a strange quality hard to define. A thief by instinct and training, his I O U was good for its face. If he borrowed $100, raying he would pay it at 11 o'clock next day, at the hour he would be at the appointed spot with the money, even if he had to rob somebody to obtain it. In fact, from the time Soapy reached the years of manhood there is no probability that he ever earned honestly so much as a cent.

Pictures of Smith show that at the time of his death he wore a beard. When the star banko artist of Denver he had only a mustache, and the face revealed had every appearance of frankness. This first impression was heightened by the smoothness of his tongue. Nobody ever accused Soapy of being a coward. He had shot and been shot at many times before a bullet reached the proper spot. He did not hesitate to face heavy odds, and with unruffled mien. he took a gambler's chances. Anybody who had known him could easily imagine him as riding against the throng gathered to rebuke him and his kind, and if he knew the shots he himself fired had touched the mark, no doubt he felt a gleam of joy just as he passed over.

Then he went to Alaska, and from the moment of his arrival there his record was one of crime and violence. He even went so far as to organize his chosen thugs into a military company and offer their services to the country. The Government thanked him, but did not accept, and the company stayed in the far north to plunder until the leader was killed and the subordinates scattered before the wrath of the populace.

It will be long before the world shall see another like Soapy, one so unscrupulous, so brazen, so despicable, yet brave and loyal to his "friends." H. J.

Sunday, January 15, 2023

Winter Days Invite Your Kodak -- January 15, 2023

Cordova, Alaska Daily Times, 02-January-1923

The Cordova Drug Company would sell you a Box Brownie for $2 and up.

Friday, November 30, 2018

George Bush, RIP/Alaska Earthquake -- November 30, 2018

www.listal.com
The elder President Bush has died.  I voted against him, but looks a lot better than today's Republicans.  We was a naval aviator during World War Two.


Anchorage was hit by a 7.0 earthquake today.  Lots of damage.  My dad often spoke about the 1964 quake, because he was stationed near there in the army.  Unlike 1964, there was not a tsunami.

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Train Station #17 -- December 5, 2009


The street side of the White Pass and Yukon Route station in Skagway, Alaska.

I took this photo on 11-July-2008.

The cat is not eating so we took her to the vet. No ideas so far.

Muni made enourmous service cuts, eliminating the 7 Haight, the 26 Valencia, and many other lines.

Thursday, August 7, 2008

Train Station #1 -- August 7, 2008

The White Pass and Yukon Route station in Skagway, Alaska.

I took this photo on 11-July-2008.

Yesterday I went with a group from work to see the Giants play the Braves. Lincecum won 3-2.

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Alaska #11 -- July 30, 2008

On Wednesday I woke up about 6am and looked out the window. I saw Yerba Buena Island, the Bay Bridge, and the police boat. My daughter said she thought she had heard the engines stop for a while while we took the harbor pilot. I missed another chance to see us pass under the Golden Gate Bridge.

My wife went to get her parents and my daughter and I waited by the dining room, where we had breakfast. We went to their cabin and grabbed their carry on items. On the way back to ours, we passed through the casino, which was thronged with people. It was one of the gathering spots for people to disembark.

We headed down to deck 7 and waited in a quiet area for our turn to go through immigration, in the lounge at the stern. It went very quickly. The officers barely looked at our passports. We didn't have to go through customs because the amount on our declaration was far under $800 each. We went down to deck 5 and waited our turn to disembark. We had a color code (light blue 2) that indicated when we would get off and where we would find our luggage.

Once in the Pier 35 shed, we found our luggage and then set out to find a porter. I finally learned that the trick is to find the ILWU supervisor. There was a massive crowd out along the Embarcadero. We helped the in-laws flag down their ride, then waited for our car.

When we got home, we found the cat in a remarkably good mood.

My favorite part of any trip is getting home and sleeping in my own bed.

We might do a cruise again some day. Not to Alaska from San Francisco -- too long.

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Alaska #10 -- July 29, 2008


Tuesday was our last full day on the cruise. We were ready to get home. Here is view over the bow of the Dawn Princess.
In the morning we attended a cooking demonstration by the chef and the pastry chef. Then there was a galley tour. The galley was remarkably big, and it was one of four.
We spent the rest of the day packing. They asked us to put our bags in the corridor between 8 and 10pm. We did ours, then help the in-laws with theirs.
I don't remember sleeping very well.
The Giants beat the Dodgers yesterday.
We spent much of the day packing.

Monday, July 28, 2008

Alaska #9 -- July 28, 2008


On Monday we woke up in Victoria, British Columbia. My wife and daughter both felt this was their favorite port. Sadly, we were only there from about 6am to 2pm. This was the first really sunny day of the whole trip.
Canadian officials did not look at our passports when we got off the ship or got back on. We caught a shuttle bus from Pier A to downtown, across the street from the Empress Hotel. We stopped to look at the Inner Harbor (Harbour?) then crossed the street. A friendly doorman let us take a look around the Empress.
We walked up Government Street and found a nice coffee shop called Mirage Coffee. I had hot chocolate and an apple croissant. We continued walking out Government, past shops that were mostly closed. We noted three Starbucks within a few blocks. There were many nice old buildings.
People were friendly in general. A man saw us looking at a map and suggested places to visit. I do a lot of that in San Francisco. I saw a sign about a program for local people to greet visitors.
We paused to look around Chinatown, which was rather small. We went down by the Via station, then crossed a drawbridge, where I took this photo of the Inner Harbor.
We went back to Government Street and visited a Starbucks to use the restroom and wait for more shops to open. My wife and daughter visited various stores. My daughter particularly liked a tee shirt shop named Utopia.
On the way back, we stopped at a large shopping mall. Unlike malls with which we were familiar, there didn't appear to be a big anchor tenant. We had lunch upstairs in the food court and had a chat with a local lady about our cruise.
We took the bus back to the pier, and found some deck chairs facing the stern to watch the ship sail away from Victoria. Right after we backed away, we saw a small, red hulled boat making all speed towards, seemingly trying to cut across our stern. It turned out to be the pilot boat. This was the only time I got to see the ship take the pilot.
I don't remember much of the rest of the day, except that we were anxious to get home. We did not get to do high tea in Victoria, so we went on the ship.
We were forced to go to the atrium at 11:30pm to watch some sort of a ceremony where the poor waiters made a huge pile of champagne glasses and the maitre d' assisted people in filling them from the top. I felt bad for the waiters, all of whom had worked breakfast, lunch, and dinner and many of whom had also done afternoon tea.

Sunday, July 27, 2008

Alaska #8 -- July 27, 2008


On Sunday, Monsignor Bruce Dreier of Saint Robert's in San Bruno said mass in the lounge at the stern. He asked for volunteer readers, so I did the first reading and my wife did the responsorial psalm. It was a nice service and lots of people showed up. After, we couldn't find a table that would fit us and the in-laws in the buffet.
We spent the whole day at sea and I think many of the passengers were going stir crazy. People were very excited when we began to see land, along Vancouver Island.
I think after a week on the ship that entropy was setting in. There was a stain on the tablecloth at dinner. Bits of the ship seemed dirtier.
Above is a shot of our cabin after it had been made up for the evening. We found it convenient to move the ladder to the foot of the upper bunk. Our cabin attendant, Eddie, did a remarkable job of keeping the room clean throughout the trip.
My daughter and I took some time to further explore the ship. We found the black box in the afternoon.
I was very anxious to get home.
Last weekend, the Brewers swept the Giants. During the week the Giants swept the Nationals. This weekend, Arizona swept the Giants. Sigh.

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Alaska #7 -- July 26, 2008


On Saturday, I set the alarm for 4:45am (!) so we could see the ship enter Tracy Arm Fjord. Our daughter chose to stay in her bunk, but my wife and I dressed warmly and went down to the promenade deck. The naturalist never mentioned the outside temperature and I was happy he did not.
As we crossed the morane bar at the mouth of the fjord, we saw some whales. As we passed up the fjord, we saw more and more floating ice, which had a pretty blue color. I was impressed by the resemblance to Yosemite. I took the photo of the waterfall on that morning.
We stopped at a point where we could see a glacier up a branch to starboard. The naturalist said the face of the Sawyer Glacier was up a branch to port. We couldn't proceed any farther because of the ice. We drifted in place for about 30 minutes, then headed back.
I spent the rest of the day getting warm and exploring the ship. My daughter and I found the black box in the afternoon.
At dinner we found it was French Night (why not on Bastille Day?). I had the snails for my appetizer and frogs' legs for the entree. No one else at the table ordered either. I got my wife to try the frog and she enjoyed it.

Friday, July 25, 2008

Alaska #6 -- July 25, 2008

On Friday, 11-July-2008, we awoke and looked out the window at Skagway's famous Ore Dock and Ore House (!). When we were up and dressed I looked out to starboard and saw a string of White Pass and Yukon passenger cars, spotted below a cliff covered with graffiti left by the crews of many ships that had called at Skagway.

We were on the second section of the three-section morning train. It was pulled by a pair of shovel-nosed GE locomotives, flanking an ALCO. The first section was for people from the Coral Princess, which was docked behind us.

Our companions on the train had mobility issues, so we were in a handicapped-accessible car. I didn't write down the number. The wheelchair lift worked smoothly and lifted them right in. My daughter and I climbed up and the next car and crossed back. There were three wheelchairs and a mobility scotter aboard. There were rails in the floor so that seats could be added or removed.

We enjoyed looking at Skagway as the train rolled out of town. My wife said it looked like a place where people really live.

Once we passed the town limits, they announced that we could stand on the platforms as much as we wanted, as long as we did not cross between cars. I spent most of the trip on the platform, watching the waterfalls and catching glimpses of the other two sections. I missed the bear.

I'll write more about the train trip on my Park Trains and Tourist Trains page (http://www.cable-car-guy.com/ptrain/index.html).

When we got back to Skagway, we pulled off the main line and into the station. Our companions insisted that we get off while they rode back to the ship. We later learned that because of the area's severe tides, it took a lot of assistance to get them aboard.

We walked around Skagway, visiting various businesses along Broadway, including the Sweet Tooth Cafe. We picked it because it reminded us of Bill's Place in San Francisco. We wanted simple food after all the fancy stuff on the ship. My wife had fish and chips and my daughter and I had grilled cheese sandwiches.

We had a nice walk back to the ship, but I learned why the Tlingit name means "place of the winds". It got to be very windy and cold.

Skagway was our favorite port in Alaska.

I took the photo in the White Pass and Yukon station.

Johnny Griffin died today.

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Alaska #5 -- July 20, 2008


On Thursday we woke up in Juneau. We were at the AJ pier, so we had to take a shuttle into town. It was $1.50 for unlimited rides. If it had not been raining, we could have walked. The shuttle let us off next to the station of the Mount Roberts Tramway. The family visited a couple of stores, then we rode the tramway to the top. It was very foggy, so we couldn't see much. The ride was exciting, about 3000 feet, almost straight up.
We visited the Nature Center and they bought some books that will be useful for reading to students. We saw Lady Baltimore, a bald eagle who had been shot and can't be returned to the wild. We were impressed by her size.
We walked up the trail a bit, and our daughter got to walk on snow, but it was slippery, so we turned back.
We took the tram back down and took a walk into Juneau. The Red Dog Saloon was too much of a tourist trap. We worked our way up to the state capitol building, had lunch, and stopped at the Alaska Hotel Bar for a beer. It was a nice dark, old-fashioned place.
My wife felt that Juneau seemed more relaxed than Sacramento. I visited the atm again and I think had two legislators behind me.
We took another ride up the tram and could see as far as the ship. I'll probably write more about it on my cable car site (even though it is not a cable car).
We took the shuttle back to the ship. One poor couple was trying to get to the Coral Princess, which was at another dock. The driver said he would take them back to town.
The tides in the area are massive, but we were able to reboard on deck 5.
I went out on deck and got some nice photos of float planes taking off and landing.
The Giants traded Ray Durham to the Brewers. He was a good player. The Brewers swept the Giants.

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Alaska #4 -- July 19, 2008

On Wednesday we woke up very early and looked out the cabin window. No land. Soon after, however, we started to see low islands. The captain had announced that we would arrive late at Ketchikan. When we got down to Deck 5, about an hour early, a line had already formed. By the time they allowed people to disembark, the lobby was jammed. Repeated announcements asked people not to go to Deck 5. No one cared.

I have read that it rains 300 days a year in Ketchikan. This was one of those days. We found three other cruise ships in port. We visited a gift shop near the pier, then moved on to look for a store that the naturalist had recommended: Ketchicandy. We picked up some chocolate-covered Oreos, which were as good as he had said they would be. We moved on to the Wells Fargo branch to patronize the atm, then proceeded to Creek Street. I wanted to take photos of the funicular, which leads up to the Fox Point Lodge, a restaurant. Beyond the funicular, the street reminded me of Sausalito during a flood.

We wandered around a bit more. My daughter was shocked when I pointed out the store that sold reindeer sausage. We stopped at a coffee place (I didn't note the name) and had something. My daughter expressed a wish for a proper cookie. She pointed out that there was nothing like that on the ship.

We had had about enough Ketchikan, so we stopped at another store near the pier, then reboarded the ship. This required scanning our cruise card and passing through a metal detector.

When the ship sailed, the naturalist talked about what we were seeing. I enjoyed seeing the rest of Ketchikan spread out along the water. Almost everything is built on piles. I saw some bald eagles and two ships of the Alaska Marine Highway. We saw a couple of whales, and he said there would be whale watching at about 7:30.

After dinner, we went out and saw more whales breaching and sounding.

My daughter took the photo of the Creek Street sign. All rights reservered.

Last night we went to the ball park to see the Giants play the Brewers. Before the game there was a crab feed in the parking lot to honor Crazy Crab. We received a Crazy Crab bobble head and a good crab sandwich. We did not wait for the guest of honor. We each got another bobble head when we entered the park. Our seats were in the very top row of the upper deck section behind home plate. The wind blew through the arches and the green material stretched across kept banging me in the back of the head. The temperature reminded me of Candlestick, but all the flags were blowing the same direction.

Crazy Crab ran across the field once and showed up on the video screens during the 7th inning stretch.

CC Sabathia almost had a shutout. The Brewers won 9-1.

Friday, July 18, 2008

Alaska #3 -- July 18, 2008


This was our second full day at sea and the family continued to grow antsy. The seas grew calmer but we got more nervous. I enjoyed walking around the promenade deck, deck 7. That is where I took this photo of a life preserver. I like the emergency light attached to it.
In the morning we attended a presentation by the resident naturalist, Allan Cortash (?), on whales. We enjoyed his style and learned a lot.
Later we sat in the library. My wife and daughter played Scrabble. I had not brought my book, so I looked out the window and watched as the horizon rose and fell above and below one of the rails. I served as the Scrabble dictionary.
One night (that night?) we went to hear a British guy named Brett Cave who played the piano, sang, and verbally abused people in the Atrium lounge. He played many Van Morrison and Elton John tunes. His schtick is to force people to sing along. He led a very difficult game of "Name That Tune."
Everyone was desperate to reach land. Tomorrow: Ketchikan.

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Alaska #2 -- July 17, 2008


After a rough night, my wife and I got up in the morning and went up to deck 14 by the aft elevators. We opened the door and were nearly blown down. We worked our way up to the buffet and had coffee. Later we saw signs like the one above posted on the windows. The sea was covered with whitecaps. The log we received at the end of the cruise said the winds were Force 10 that day.
Our daughter felt better when she got up.
My mother-in-law has always wanted to win at trivia, which appears to be a big event on cruise ships, so she was hoping she could do well with our help. We had to compete several times and helped her to win passport holders and luggage tags. Bad things often happen when I play trivia, but nothing this time.
Monday was the first formal night. At dinner we found two new people at the table, two gentlemen from Walnut Creek, married four years. Nice people, but one wasn't feeling well. Everyone looked nice. After, we posed for photos with the in-laws.
We took our daughter to a night club called Jammers for drinks.
By the end of the day, the seas had grown calmer.
I didn't get to read as much as I had hoped. I started with Jack London's The Call of the Wild. It seemed appropriate.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Alaska #1 -- July 16, 2008


We just got back from a cruise from San Francisco to Alaska and back (thank Heaven) to celebrate the in-laws' 50th wedding anniversary. I thought I'd write about it one day at a time.
On Sunday, July 6, a car came and picked us up at 11am. The driver took us to Pier 35. An ILWU porter grabbed our bags and explained "I'll go through that door and you'll go through this door." We went in and got in line. We had to show our passports and we received simple forms to fill out.
We sat in a small waiting area while filling out the forms, then got into another line, which went quickly. We got checked in there and sent over to another area, where they took a group of us and boarded us. We found an elevator to deck 8, and followed the signs through the pizza place, the atrium, and the casino to our room.
My wife was shocked to see how small it was. My daughter couldn't see her bed. I explained that the room had not been made up yet. The view out our window looked between lifeboats 14 and 16.
We met the in-laws and went to the buffet for lunch.
The safety drill was all on recorded audio. There were three muster stations on deck 7, in the lobby of the theatre forward, in the Atrium amidships, and in the Vista Lounge at the stern. That was our station. We grabbed our life preservers and headed down there. The captain announced more than once that people should make sure not to drag their straps. We put on the vests at the end and they encouraged us to take photos.
We went to deck 14 (there is no 13) for the sail away party. I was looking forward to watching as we sailed under the bridge. We waited and waited after the 5pm time we were supposed to sail. Captain Marco Fortezze (a Genoese) announced that all passengers were aboard, but they were looking for a member of the crew. We had to head down for our 5:30 dinner seating.
We sat at our table with the in-laws and a nice couple from Stockton. The waiter and assistant waiter, Valentino and Raul, were very good. The food was fancy, but not all of it was thrilling.
Later we unpacked in the cabin. The trip was rough and my daughter was a little unwell. She didn't sleep well as the ship started to porpoise as we ran north against the current.
I took the photo of Dawn Princess' builder's plate on 09-July-2008. Even though she is only 11 years old, she is considered to be too old and too small.
Tomorrow: A day at sea.